Humpback whales Megaptera novaeangliae migrate through the islands from July to November and Tonga is one of the few places in the world where visitors are allowed to snorkel and scuba dive with them.
With at least one or two dive operators set up in the major island groups and the wide expanse and variety of dive sites with huge caverns, tunnels, underwater cliffs, volcanic formations and a few wrecks, scuba diving and underwater photography opportunities are endless.
Visibility exceeds 30 metres most of the year with water temperatures ranging between 23C to 29C.
Being so far out in the South Pacific, Tonga's solitude has resulted in it being virtually unexplored underwater so dive sites are not actually overrun at any time.
Humpback whales Megaptera novaeangliae migrate through the islands from July to November and Tonga is one of the few places in the world where visitors are allowed to snorkel and scuba dive with them.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Melinda Sea Adventures boat. Over four hundred humpback whales
Megaptera novaeangliae visit Tongan waters on their annual migration.
( photo: Ron Hunter )
History
Located below Fiji and directly east from New Caledonia the Kingdom of Tonga is made up of 171 islands scattered across 700,000sq km of the South Pacific Ocean. It lies on the top of the Tonga Ridge which runs adjacent to the Tongan Trench, the second deepest trench in the world reaching a depth of 10,882 metres at a location named the Vityaz Deeps.
The kingdom is comprised of four major island groups. Tongatapu Group, the largest, contains the main island of Tongatapu with the capital of Tonga, Nuku'alofa, the seat of Government and the most well known port of call to most visitors.
On the north side Tongatapu is rimmed by a well-developed barrier reef, which is often inaccessible due to rough conditions brought on by prevailing winds.
Most of the diving is on submerged reefs and around outlying islands.
A dive trip to Eua Island is over two days as the boat trip takes three hours each way depending on conditions. Hard corals are present to below 30 metres due to the clear water, though this works in reverse for the gorgonian sea fans which are generally in deeper water and get even more prolific as one goes deeper.
Giant Sea Fans Annella reticulata appear at depths below 20m and go on to 30 m and far beyond. Many have a headdress of feather stars.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
From July to November humpback whales migrate through the channel between Tongatapu and Eua.
Around 100km north of Tongatapu are 62 low-lying beach fringed islands making up the Ha'apai Group of which 17 are inhabited and whose peoples exist by sustenance farming and fishing.
Another 100km north finds the Vava'u Group with its 50 or so thickly wooded islands. The main island Vava'u with its protected harbour (Port of Refuge) supports the largest town Neiafu (with over 5,000 people) and is the second most popular port of call for most visitors.
Close encounters of the best kind are possible during the yearly Humpback Whale migration through the Tongan Islands. ( photo: Ron Hunter )
The diving includes walls, submerged reefs, sea caves, swim throughs and the wreck of the Clan McWilliam; coral reefs and volcanic formations with areas of stony and soft corals. At 30 metres are large black coral bushes, sea fans and feather stars. Inside the caves are encrusting sponges and ascidians, rock lobsters, cardinalfish, lacy bryozoans and in the darkest recesses, flashlight fish.
The Niuas Group lies 400km north of Vava'u, three remote, isolated volcanic islands. The administrative capital Hihifo Village is situated on the island of Niuatoputapu, has a post office, co-op store and a police station. The area is subject to volcanic activity with 10 major eruptions over 150 years.
Hillside gardens, scattered coconut trees and secondary forest; lush vegetation watered by high rainfall and visited by cyclones.
Similar to other island groups in the South Pacific it is estimated that Tongan ancestors arrived in the Group some 3,300 to 3,500 years ago originating from south-east Asia. The first recorded European contact was by the Dutch in 1616 and again in 1643 Abel Janszoon Tasman (another Dutchman) is known to have traded from his ships Heemskerck and Zeehan. An English explorer Captain Samuel Wallis preceded Captain James Cook by seven years. Captain Cook was sent out in 1773 by King George III and spent some time trading and gathering information on the area.
A relative of the gingers, the Lobster Claw Heliconia rostrata was introduced throughout the South Pacific for its colourful unique flowers.
After some turbulent times created by foreign influences, Christian faiths have emerged as the most powerful religious groups. Tongan people are deeply religious and by law Sunday is a real Sunday where nobody works and people go to church, eat, sleep and take it even easier than other days. There are no planes, no transport, no taxis, no buses, no working, no fishing, no swimming or diving for the locals.
The kingdom is threatened by change in the form of the pro-democratic HRDM but things in Tonga rarely move fast and change for most people is not high on their agenda.
Resources and Tourism
With imports outstripping exports 10-fold, economic stability will be a serious reality in the future. Although there are some agricultural exports such as limes, tomatoes, watermelons, squash, peppers, vanilla beans, copra and kava these are seasonal and are dependant on supply and demand. While tuna fishing has enormous potential the average exports remain at around T$10,000.
Most timber is used locally and there is a protected forest area on 'Eua Island which is to be applauded. Increased tourism could be effective in assisting to balance the trade deficit as the present day receipts hover around T$10,000,000 but the infrastructure, airlines and general business attitude needs to be encouraged to keep up and expand its interests to be competitive with other Pacific areas.
Beach Hibiscus Hibiscus tiliaceus is native throughout Tonga and the islands of the South Pacific.
While the thousands of fantastic beaches, hundreds of islands, friendly people, crystal clear waters, coconut palms, burning sunsets, exquisite landscapes and scenery are powerful magnets to tourists, eco-tourism depends on interaction with wild and wildlife.
Land flora and fauna
The Red - breasted Musk Parrot Prosopera tabuensis is thought to have been introduced to Tonga from the Fiji Islands. The feathers of colourful land birds were once used for ceremonial cloaks.
( photo: Philip Felstead Kula Eco Park Fiji) www.fijiwild.com
The setting up of eight officially protected national parks and reserves is commendable and while terrestrial wildlife may not be commonly observed, some of the rarer birds, reptiles and plants can be seen at the Tongan Wildlife Centre on Tongatapu Island. The wildlife centre appears to be the only place one can reliably see the unique Niuafo'ou megapode bird, which has been exterminated on most islands of the kingdom due to its edible qualities and vulnerability to cats and rats.
Much of the suitable land has been cultivated as coconut plantations, farmland, or into towns and villages. Most of the primary rainforest remains on the outer, more rugged islands.
Solitary by nature, the Red-tailed Tropic bird Phaethon rubicunda
spends most of its life in the air.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Although several books have been written which include land birds of Tonga the reality of seeing many terrestrial native species on a short field trip without a specialist guide is bleak. The little white-rumped swiftlets Collocalia spodiopygia common across the entire South Pacific and for which the many Swallow's Caves are named, are everywhere. There are various fruit doves and crowned doves, the barn owl Tyto alba, the blue crowned lorikeet Vini australis, the red-breasted musk parrot Prosopeia tabuensis and numbers of other species.
The shores are visited in season by visiting migrant species including curlews and godwits, while white and red-tailed tropicbirds, noddies, terns, boobies and frigate birds are also present in the area.
Land mammals are represented by insectivorous bats and fruit bats and reptiles in the form of the bright green banded iguana Brachylophus fasciatus (which lives in the forests and gardens) and several species of geckoes and skinks.
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The Banded Iguana Brachylophus fasciatus (male)
the largest lizard in Tonga is thought to have
its origins in South America.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Reef Walking
During low tides, guides can take eco-experience groups out to the reef, pointing out the various species and sharing the experience of learning and the wide diversity of creatures.
Walking upright across rubble banks through sandy pools rimmed with sharp coral and on slippery surfaces coated with microscopic algae requires some skill to avoid damage to persons or inhabitants. In order to give their patrons the best and safest reef walk adventure some eco-minded resorts provide a large box of protective footwear (sandshoes or gym boots) with lace up fronts and thick soles. Thongs and sandals are not adequate protection from sharp coral, or the spines of sea urchins or venomous fish which may be hiding beneath the sand.
Reef poles are for balance only NOT for poking the creatures to see if they work. By paying attention to the guide it is amazing what can be learnt and what can be seen. This experience can then be built upon by groups or couples exploring on their own.
One of the best reefwalkers and most prominent shoreline hunters,
the Reef Heron Egretta sacra may be grey, or white.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
When choosing a path across the reef flats it is best to walk on the firmer flat areas and avoid walking directly on the corals. This is just as much benefit to the reef walker as the coral, as many corals are fragile and will often collapse under the weight of a human often causing injury to unprotected ankles or shins or dumping the reef walker into the water or at worse onto the surrounding reef.
When walking in the shallows through pools or on submerged rubble try and shuffle each foot along rather than taking big steps where the foot comes down with the full body weight on it. In this way, small sting rays or stonefish can sense your approach and either move out of your way, or by shuffling you move past a stonefish instead of stepping directly on its raised spines.
Caution is the key element in reef walking.
Always wear a hat and a shirt for even if the breeze seems to be cooler or the sun weaker on an overcast day this is not the case. Every day in the outdoors is a potential burn day. The surface water reflects the sunlight upwards so it is best to take precautions.
(Always obtain permission from operator or village before reef walking).
Marine Life
Little published material exists on the make-up and diversity of marine life in Tongan waters and as far as determining the few general accounts it appears that compared to other areas the number of species is not as diverse. Local fishing and use of deeper water mist nets has also reduced species at some localities; even Butterflyfish appear in the markets as food.
The Racoon Butterflyfish Chaetodon lunula is generally
seen in pairs. At certain times large schools may
occur in some areas.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
One published guide has suggested there are at least 150 species of fish, however, there are a lot more than that. Many species are just few and far between. No lists of marine invertebrates exist but species researched from articles and from pictures from underwater photographers suggest the make-up of species is similar to Fiji Islands and Vanuatu. Certainly, the majority of common larger marine life forms such as giant trumpets, giant frog shells, assorted cowries, common reef crabs, shrimps, sea urchins, sea stars and sea cucumbers are all present.
Found throughout the central pacific the Flame Angelfish Centropyge loricula occurs in rich coral areas.
(Photo: Copyright Roger Steene)
Soft corals, gorgonian sea fans and at least 250 species of stony corals are known to exist in Tongan waters.
Hopefully, this information and the book I wrote on Tonga will encourage a greater participation for recording marine flora and fauna in the future. A number of whales and dolphins are known and there is a very successful whale watching season from June to November when the humpbacks migrate through the area.
The king banned all whaling in the area in 1979 and the whale population has increased since 1990 with over 160 humpbacks being identified by visual features.
Snorkelling
Tonga is a perfect place to learn to snorkel. Shallow and protected, with a wealth of wildlife a mere arm's length away the reefs and their creatures provide a never-ending sense of amazement to all who share the experience.
With the South Pacific Ocean providing such a wonderful opportunity, anybody can snorkel. It doesn't matter what body shape one has, with a short wetsuit, natural buoyancy or help from a vest or flotation life jacket, the shallow waters and their wildlife can be everybody's enjoyment, from kids to retired kids.
With a little training, everyone can become proficient at
snorkelling and enjoy the ultimate eco-experience.
However, like all adventure activities snorkelling is of greater pleasure if a few things are known beforehand. Always ensure that masks and fins fit properly. Always clean mask glass with soap, drip of detergent or ample spit to make sure it does not fog up and spoil the view.
At favourable locations huge Cabbage Corals
Turbinaria reniformis can be seen.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Remember, if you need to stand up while snorkelling, head for a sandy area. Try not to stand up on the coral, especially in the deeper lagoon areas as the corals are much more fragile and can be easily damaged. Snorkelling on the surface means you are face to face with hundreds of easy-to-see creatures. Investigation is fine but always be very careful how you approach animals. Some can sting, spine, abrade or bite. Even small fish being hand fed have small teeth and can draw blood; the bigger the fish the bigger the teeth.
A wide-ranging species, the reef octopus Octopus cyanea mimics a piece of reef.
It feeds on bivalve and univalve molluscs.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Sea urchins are not good to touch as the spines are needle sharp and break off in careless fingers. Some sea cucumbers have sticky, noxious defensive organs, which are shot out from their anus if they are handled, so don't harass them. Common sense should be applied at all times. If you are not sure, leave it alone and just look. Quite often dive guides give demonstrations on how to use mask and snorkel and this service is really necessary for beginners.
Scuba Diving
Admittedly, coral reefs are not everywhere and in some places, the underwater scenery is dominated by volcanic rock with marine life attached. However, most of the available coral reefs are well known to local dive operators and it is best to go on a guided tour.
The Lemon Peel Angelfish Centropyge flavissimus can be distinguished
by its blue cheek spine and blue circled eye.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Some areas are offshore marine reserves and require a boat trip to see them. Shore reefs near large population centres on the other hand may be ordinary due to their close proximity to local sustenance hunters.
Five of the eight officially protected areas are marine national parks and include sites at Nuku'alofa such as the Ha'atafu Beach Reserve, Hakaumama'o Reef Reserve, Malinoa Island and Reef Reserve, Monu'afe Island and Reef Reserve and Pangaimotu Reef Reserve.
The Nodulose Necklace Star Fromia nodulosa
lives on deeper reefs and is rarely photographed.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
The Regal Angelfish Pygoplites diacanthus lives amongst
coral reefs areas and around rocky reefs, generally around 10 to 20 metres.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
With at least one or two dive operators set up in the major island groups and the wide expanse and variety of dive sites with huge caverns, tunnels, underwater cliffs, volcanic formations and a few wrecks, scuba diving opportunities are endless. Visibility exceeds 30 metres most of the year with water temperatures ranging between 23C to 29C.
Being so far out in the South Pacific, Tonga's solitude has resulted in it being virtually unexplored underwater so dive sites are not actually overrun at any time.
Many nudibranchs have yet to be recorded from Tongan waters.
The Black-rayed Fryeria Fryeria picta is common.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
The Harlequin Rockcod Cephalopholis polleni
inhabits caves and is rarely seen out in the open.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Neville Coleman's diving expeditions, fauna surveys, photographic fauna surveys and marine life identification courses include every major group of marine life.
Neville Coleman's expertise in marine life identification extends to the identification of Algae, Sea Grass, Forams, Sponges, Stony Corals, Soft Corals, Sea Anemones, Sea Jellies, Zoanthids, Corallimorphs, Black Corals, Flatworms, Segmented Worms, Crustaceans, Barnacles, Shrimps, Rock Lobsters, Hermit Crabs, Squat Lobsters, Molluscs, Chitons, Univalves, Bivalves, Cephalopods, Octopus, Cuttlefish, Squid, Opisthobranchs, Nudibranchs, Sea Slugs, Bryozoans, Sea Mosses, Echinoderms, Sea Stars, Feather Stars, Brittle Stars, Sea Urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Ascidians/Sea Squirts, Marine Fish, Sharks, Marine Reptiles, and Marine Mammals, all found in the waters around Tonga.
( Copyright Neville Coleman)
How to get to Tonga
From Asia or Australia connect to Tongatabu through Auckland. There are also direct flights from Sydney once a week on Royal Tongan Airlines and Polynesian Airlines. From the USA, connect through Samoa or Hawaii. It is also possible to connect from Tahiti and Fiji.
Domestic connections by Royal Tongan Airlines to
Eua and Vava'u. These sectors may be difficult to book internationally. You may seek assistance from your dive operators or the Tongan Visitors Bureau.
Climate
Tropical, although slightly cooler than most other Pacific islands, the average temperature is 24 degrees Celsius. The wet season falls between December to March.
Currency
Banking and credit cards
Tongan Pa'anga (dollar) is the official currency but Australian and New Zealand currency can also be used. All major credit cards are accepted in the Tongatabu area. Foreign exchange is available at banks and
major hotels.
Electricity
Tonga uses 240 volts/AC 50 cycles, but can be converted to 110 volts in most hotels. Power points can accept three-pronged plus as used in Australia
and New Zealand.
Time zone
Tonga is one hour ahead of New Zealand standard time and three hours ahead of Australian Eastern Standard Time.
Health
Vaccinations are not required for visiting Tonga, unless arriving within six days of a Yellow Fever infected area. Water is chlorinated and safe to drink in the main township areas, however, when on holiday we recommend bottled water and care taken if consuming market purchased goods. Hospitals and medical
facilities are available in Nuku'alofa, Ha'apai and Vava'u. Full travel insurance is recommended.
AVOID MOSQUITOS DENGUE FEVER IS PRESENT.
Customs and religion
Christianity is the major religion in Tonga with
Methodist the main denomination.
Visa and entry requirements Australian and New Zealand citizens do not require Visas for stays of up to 30 days. Proof of onward air or sea travel is required on arrival into Tonga.
Departure tax
TOP$25 is payable on departure from Tonga for all passengers 12 years of age and older.
Language and culture
Tongan is the official language, but English is widely spoken. Having never been colonised, Tonga retains its own culture and in most instances traditional lifestyles are maintained.
Dress
Casual, tropical dress is worn during the day and warmer clothing fro the cooler balmy nights.
Swimwear is only permitted in private resorts, beaches or swimming pools. It is illegal for anyone to appear in public without a shirt. If visiting a local village, appropriate attire should be worn.