Covering some 800,000 square kilometres, the Solomon Islands provides some of the most spectacular scuba diving, snorkeling and underwater photography and in the Indo - Pacific.
It is made up of around 990 islands, cays and atolls, making it the third largest group in the Pacific area and has an astounding diversity of marine life on its reefs and in the waters surrounding the islands and cays.
Most of the larger islands are rugged, with high mountains and dense rainforests cut by deep ravines carved by rivers fed from the torrential rainfall.
The forests are inhabited by creatures just as amazing as those in the water, which makes the Solomon Islands a fabulous destination for eco tourism exponents.
With over 900 island cays and atolls the Solomon Islands are recognised as one of the greatest regions of marine diversity.
History
Covering some 800,000 square kilometres, the Solomon Islands contains around 990 islands, cays and atolls, making it the third largest group in the Pacific area. Most of the larger islands are rugged, with high mountains and dense rainforests cut by deep ravines carved by rivers fed from the torrential rainfall. Coastal swamps and island foreshores are generally fringed with mangroves.
Although there are four active volcanoes they do not display on a regular basis as those in the neighbouring countries of Papua New Guinea and Vanuatu. Melanesian by ancestry the Solomon Islanders mainly live on five major island groups stretching from just below Papua New Guinea's island of Bougainville (Choiseul Island) to San Cristobal in the south-east. Between these are the island groups of New Georgia, Santa Isabel, the Floridas, the Russells, Guadalcanal and Malaita.
Coral cays appear much the same everywhere; rainforest fringed by coconut palms.
Earliest known European contact was by the Spanish explorer Alvaro de Mendana out of Peru who landed on and named Santa Isabel Island and then went on to chart the coastlines of the other islands. He returned 30 years later to develop a colony.
The islands people have gone through many transitions and upheavals since their contact with Europeans from blackbirding in the 19th century to disease epidemics and the Japanese invasion during World War II.
Some of the heaviest and bloodiest fighting in the Pacific area was during the Solomon Island's campaign. The resulting wartime relics have become an important tourist attraction in post-war times and in many cases make diving the Solomon Islands such a memorable experience.
Solomon Island warriors were once known to be fearsome headhunters. Relic trophies are still present today.
( photo: Nigel Marsh)
In 1978, the Solomon Islands became independent and tourism is high on the agenda of economic importance. Regardless of changes, (Australian Government controlling law and order and re-establishment of Government functions in 2003) much of the traditional way of life can still be seen throughout the area with subsistence farming and fishing going on much the same way it has for generations.
Although English and Pidgin are the most common, there are over 75 local languages still used in specific areas.
Reef Walking
During low tides, guides may take eco-experience groups out and about the reef, pointing out the various species and sharing the experience of learning and the wide diversity of creatures.
Walking upright across rubble banks through sandy pools rimmed with sharp coral and on slippery surfaces coated with microscopic algae requires some skill to avoid damage to persons or inhabitants.
In order to give their patrons the best and safest reef walk adventure some eco-minded resorts provide a box of protective footwear (sandshoes or gym boots) with lace up fronts and thick soles. Thongs and sandals are not adequate protection from sharp coral, or the spines of sea urchins or venomous fish which may be hiding beneath the sand.
Three legs are better for balancing and support when reef walking and to this measure reef poles are also provided for all. It may all appear simple to the uninitiated but I have seen several serious accidents, broken arms, legs and severe coral poisoning happen to those who ignored advice and thought they knew better.
The reef poles are for balance only NOT for poking the creatures to see if they work. By paying attention to the guide it is amazing what can be learnt and what can be seen. This experience can then be built upon by groups or couples exploring on their own.
When choosing a path across the reef flats it is best to walk on the firmer flat areas and avoid walking directly on the corals. This is just as much benefit to the reef walker as the coral, as many corals are fragile and will often collapse under the weight of a human often causing injury to unprotected ankles or shins or dumping the reef walker into the water or at worse onto the surrounding reef. When walking in the shallows through pools or on submerged rubble try and shuffle each foot along rather than taking big steps where the foot comes down with the full body weight on it.
In this way, small sting rays or stonefish can sense your approach and either move out of your way, or by shuffling you move past a stonefish instead of stepping directly on its raised spines.
Caution is the key element in reef walking.
Always wear a hat and a shirt for even if the breeze seems to be cooler or the sun weaker on an overcast day this is not the case. Every day in the outdoors is a potential burn day. The surface water reflects the sunlight upwards so it is best to take precautions.
In reality, very few reef creatures are aggressive or have intentions to injure us. They just have various survival systems and behaviours which we are often ignorant of. If we understand them better we can go amongst them marvelling at these devices instead of being on the receiving end.
(Always obtain permission from operator or village before reef walking).
Marine Life
Giant Barrel Sponges Xestospongia testudinaria are to be seen in deeper waters below 20 metres.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
One of the coral reefs most inquisitive creatures is the Peacock Mantis Shrimp Odontodactylus scyllarus hunts molluscs and smashes the shells open with its with its calcified dactyls.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Recent studies (Nature Conservancy 2004) show that the Solomon Islands has one of the highest biodiversities of coral reefs species anywhere in the world. For the little that is known about the terrestrial wildlife of the Solomon's, even less has been published on the make-up and diversity of its sea creatures.
The Red - stripe Basslet Pseudanthias fasciatus females generally live in small schools, or groups in wrecks, or at the edge of drop offs below 20 metres.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
It is thought there are around the same number of fishes as found in Papua New Guinea (around 4,000 species) and at least 350 to 400 species of stony corals and soft corals. The area is very rich in molluscs with an estimation of over 6,500 to 10,000 species. Over 70 species of opisthobranchs are recorded and up to 300 kinds of echinoderms. Published records establishing fauna listings on other groups are non-existent but there is no doubt, the species are extensive.
Snorkelling
For serious snorkellers it is best to cover up from the
sun and wind chill with a wetsuit or lycra suit.
(Photo Nigel Marsh)
The Solomon Islands is a perfect place to learn to snorkel. Shallow and protected with a wealth of wildlife a mere arm's length away the lagoons and shallow water reefs provide a never ending sense of amazement to all who share the experience.
With the Solomon Sea providing such a wonderful opportunity, anybody can snorkel. It doesn't matter what body shape one has, with a shortie wetsuit, natural buoyancy or help from a vest or flotation assistance life jacket the sea and its wildlife can be everybody's enjoyment, from kids to retired kids.
Not as common as some other species, the Spine -cheek Anemonefish Premnas biaculatus is often found living amongst the tentacles of the Bulb - tentacled Sea Anemone Entacmea quadricolor.
(Photo Nigel Marsh)
However, like all adventure activities snorkelling is of greater pleasure if a few things are known beforehand. Always ensure that masks and fins fit properly. Always clean mask glass with soap, drip of detergent or ample spit to make sure it does not fog up and spoil the view.
By snorkelling in a shallow water lagoon one has
visual access to hundreds of species, face to face.
Snorkelling on the surface means you are face to face with hundreds of easy-to-touch creatures. Investigation is fine but always be very careful how you touch animals. Some can sting, spine, abrade or bite. Even small fish being hand fed have small teeth and can draw blood; the bigger the fish the bigger the teeth.
Sea urchins are not good to touch as the spines are needle sharp and break off in careless fingers. Some sea cucumbers have sticky, noxious defensive organs which are shot out from their anus when they are handled, so don't harass them.
Common sense should be applied at all times. If you are not sure, leave it alone and just look. Quite often dive guides give demonstrations on how to use mask and snorkel and this service is really necessary for beginners.
Scuba Diving
Many reef edge drop offs in the Solomon's go down several hundred metres. Real wall diving in open water. One could spend 2 weeks scuba diving the front reef Uepi Island and hardly even begin ot see it all.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Honiara on the island of Guadalcanal is the capital of the Solomon Islands having the largest tourist development and the international airport. There are a number of dive services available on a day to day basis and live-aboards ranging from local sites out to the Russell Islands, north-west of Guadalcanal.
Most wreck diving ranges from three metres to 60 metres and there are huge transports, a troop ship, a B16 flying fortress and a submarine, enough to whet the appetite of any wreck-diving enthusiast. Each wreck itself is covered in corals, soft corals, hydroids and gorgonians, with giant cockscomb and thorny oysters everywhere.
Many sheltered caves and swim-throughs have giant sea fans Melithaea sp. growing in their shady recesses.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Intricately-patterned feather stars cling to sea fans and brightly-coloured sponges and ascidians vie for deck space, while above schools of fish sparkle in the rays of the sun. The surrounding reefs are rich in corals, tropical fish, nudibranchs, soft coral gardens and schooling pelagics.
Ghizo
At many resorts sites the local kids watch the divers as they enter the water.
(Photo Nigel Marsh)
Located in the western province of the Solomon Islands near New Georgia Ghizo has a population of around 4,500, 2,500 of which live in the main township of Ghizo. Main transport is an island-hopping twin otter flight from Honiara to Nusatope Island and then it is boat transport to Ghizo itself.
Dive sites offer an excellent opportunity to discover the rich diversity of coral reef species and explore or photograph both ship and plane wrecks. Grand Central Station is a wall dive down to 50 metres with a wealth of sights to see, gardens of hard and soft corals, sea whips, masses of reef fish along the drop-off and schools of pelagics and reef sharks patrolling the open water. The Naru wall is a drift dive amongst a hanging amphitheatre of soft corals, sea fans and sea whips.
Giant Cabbage corals Turbinaria retiformis abound on some reefs. These huge colonies are almost always yellow in colour and present a spectacular dive experience.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Around the Toa Maru (a 140 metre transport) can be seen a tank, lots of pieces of guns and trucks and heaps of interesting marine life. The stern lies at 37 metres. Manta Ray Road speaks for itself, while Joe's Wall, the Corsair fighter plane and the Hellcat have rich coral growths, sea fans dripping with feather stars, giant clams, cabbage coral, stacks of anemonefish and black corals.
Uepi Island
Situated in the western province in the Marovo lagoon near New Georgia, Uepi is a small rainforest, mangrove-fringed island with huge groves of coconut palms. Accommodation is in the form of separate cabins with meals available at the meeting house.
Transport to the island is by a twin otter plane from Honiara to the Seghe airport on New Georgia Island and from there by boat to Uepi Island. At most times, visibility often exceeds 20 metres. The diving is spectacular, from the walk-in jetty dive with its whaler sharks, myriad gorgonian sea fans, sponges, soft corals and nudibranchs.
The Flashing File Shell Ctenoides ales lives in hloes in the walls of underwater caves on coral reefs and rocky reefs at 5 to 30 metres. It grows to (8cm) and is not easy to find. However, the search is worth it, to see one of nature's underwater marvels.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Charapoana Drift with its big basket sponges, giant gorgonians, hanging soft corals, with zillions of fairy basslets flashing their brilliant colours and the ever-present barracuda and trevally schools while Elbow Caves is great for swim-throughs and deep gutters lined with sea fans (always take a torch).
In some areas the Blue-girdled Angelfish Pomacanthus navarchus is often seen in shallow water.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
The Necklace Sea Star Fromia monilis has longer arms than forms at other places.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Uepi Point with its ever-present gigantic schools of big fish slopes down to a saddle at 30 metres. The swim down is over large gorgonians, sponges, soft corals and sea whips, with sea stars and feather stars.
Munda
This relatively new resort to the Solomon's is located at New Georgia, the largest Island in the Western province. The area offers much the same in diving on walls, wrecks, lots of species and lots of exploring.
Present on many reefs the magnificent Sea Anemone Heteractis magnifica can grow to around 1 metre in size and should not be touched with bare hands.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Remarks: Tropical and hot, it's still a good idea to cover up from stingers, sunburn and scrapes, so full length lycra suits, Darlexx or 2mm wetsuits are the go.
Malaria is a real and ever-present danger in the Solomon Islands; every precaution must be taken, preventative medication and preventative measures -
don't get bitten by mosquitoes.
Land Flora and Fauna
Huge buttress surface roots signify many forest giants as on many coral islands the soil cover is shallow.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
As an extension of the huge Papua New Guinea resource of flora and fauna the Solomon Islands has a wealth of species with many thousands of plants and animals recorded and many thousands still awaiting discovery and description.
With over 3000 species of orchids in Papua New Guinea, similar species occur in the Solomons (Dendrobium sp.)
(Photo Neville Coleman)
This enormous melting pot of wildlife includes almost every known group of life forms present in tropical jungles. Some creatures have been popularised but for most they just remain as mysterious inhabitants of a formidable wilderness. Very little has ever been published , apart from birds and mammals. A monumental task for the future.
Widespread across the region the Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus males are green; females are red and blue.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
One of the most dramatic dragon flies Neurothemis stigmatizonus is mostly seen as red or yellow.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Orchids are amongst the most beautiful of rainforest flowers. Dendrobium tokai is an epiphytic species.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
MacFarland's Butterfly Graphium macfarlandei is just one of over 200 butterfly species known from the Solomon's.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Much of the insect fauna remains undescribed.
This moth belongs to the family Geometridae.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Primarily a ground-dwelling species the shore frog
Platymanis sp. lays its eggs in old coconut shells and stumps.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Only seen at night the Horrid Stick Insect Eurycantha horridus lives inside hollow trees.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
Neville Coleman's diving expeditions, fauna surveys, photographic fauna surveys and marine life identification courses include every major group of marine life.
Neville Coleman's expertise in marine life identification extends to the identification of Algae, Sea Grass, Forams, Sponges, Stony Corals, Soft Corals, Sea Anemones, Sea Jellies, Zoanthids, Corallimorphs, Black Corals, Flatworms, Segmented Worms, Crustaceans, Barnacles, Shrimps, Rock Lobsters, Hermit Crabs, Squat Lobsters, Molluscs, Chitons, Univalves, Bivalves, Cephalopods, Octopus, Cuttlefish, Squid, Opisthobranchs, Nudibranchs, Sea Slugs, Bryozoans, Sea Mosses, Echinoderms, Sea Stars, Feather Stars, Brittle Stars, Sea Urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Ascidians/Sea Squirts, Marine Fish, Sharks, Marine Reptiles, and Marine Mammals, all found in the waters around the Solomon Islands.
( Copyright Neville Coleman)
Airlines
Five international flights per week. Domestic flights to provinces such as Malaita, Western and Ysabel on a daily basis and one or two flights per week to provinces such as Renbel, Choiseul, Makira and Temotu. Solomon Airlines provides regular services to about 27 airstrips in nine provinces. Henderson Air port is 13 kilometres from Honiara.
Entry requirements
American, British, Commonwealth and EEC visitors may obtain a visitor's permit on arrival for a period of 30 days (extensions may be issued). No fees apply. All visitors must have current return or onward tickets and should be in possession of adequate funds in support of their stay. Enquiries at the Division of Immigration at PO Box G26, Honiara, Solomon Islands. Fax: 677 22 964 or the nearest consulate.
Health regulations
Visitors require immunisation if originating or having passed through disease-infected or epidemic countries. Malaria medication is recommended.
Business hours
Main business hours on Mondays to Fridays is from 8.30am to 6pm. On Saturdays shops open between 8.30am to 12.30pm. There are numerous 24-hour shops, which open all the time including on public holidays.
Climate
Hot and humid year round with the green season occurring December to March. The average temperature is 29 degrees Celsius.
Dress
Take light and airy clothing. A sweater for the rare cool evening. Female dress should be modest in public.
Electricity
The Solomon Islands Electricity Authority operates a continuous 240/415 volts hertz electrical supply.
Telecommunications
The Solomon Telekom offers a wide range of telecommunication facilities that will suit your needs. There are also a number of Internet cafes in Honiara and at Gizo in the Western Province. Phone cards are available from the Solomon Telekom head office.
Time zone
Eleven hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time.
Tipping
Tipping is not at all encouraged in any tourist facilities.
Transport
In Honiara and bigger provincial centres like Auki (Malaita) and Gizo (Western) public buses and taxi services are readily available for use. There are a number of radio-controlled taxi services, some of which operate on a 24-hour basis. Cost of taxi from the Henderson Airport to Honiara Town or vice versa is about SBD$50.00.