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New Caledonia Scuba Diving and Snorkeling - Neville Coleman

 

Some areas of New Caledonia are a paradise for scuba diving, snorkelling and underwater photography.
Surrounded by 1,600 km of coral reef, the New Caledonia lagoon is the largest in the world. 
The outer edge of the reef can be as close as a few kilometers from the coast in some places and as far as 65 km in others. 

 

 Hippocampus bargibanti

Originally discovered in the 1960's by the divers at the Aquarium of Noumea in New Caledonia, Bargibant's Pygmy Sea Horse Hippocampus bargibanti was described by the then Curator of Fishes at the Australian Museum Gilbert Whitley in 1970.
It was the first pygmy sea horse to be named and until Alan Power found another one at 50 metres on a sea fan at Santo, Vanuatu in the early 1970's it remained virtually unknown until specimens became well known throughout Papua New Guinea over the last 20 years.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

New Caledonia Map 

Map courtesy of Kevin Deacon  DIVE 2000, from his iconic book
"Australia and the South Pacific -
Exploring the Isands and Underwater World"

Nautilus pompilius

The Pearly Nautilus Nautilus pompilious is found across the Indo- Pacific where the shell has been washing up on beaches for many millions of years.
The first ones to be studied alive and filmed alive were caught and kept by the Aquarium of Noumea.
During the day they live at the botttom of deep dropoffs at depths of 200 + metres. At night they make vertical migrations up into the shallow waters to catch food, such as sleeping fish, crabs and rock lobsters, returning to the depths at daylight.
(Photo Neville Coleman) 

New Caledonia itself is situated about 1,500 km from Australia, 1,700 km from New Zealand, and  after Papua New Guinea and New Zealand, it is the third largest island in the Pacific Region.

Unlike its volcanic neighbors, New Caledonia is a fragment of an ancient continent which drifted away some 250 million years ago. Its flora and fauna evolved in isolation, and many are now quite unique, with some 3500 recorded species of plants, three quarters of which are endemic; 4300 species of land creatures, 1000 species of fish and 6500 species of marine invertebrates.

 CYPRAEIDAE Cypraea mappa Map cowry

Only  seen out and about at night, the beautifully patterned Map Cowry Leporiccypraea mappa feeds exclusively on sponges. During the day it generally live in caves and grottos, deep in the reef.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

Although its seas are all connected to the Pacific Ocean, there are a large number of sea creatures that are only found on the reefs inside the huge lagoon and nowhere else in the world. There are unique sea stars, nudibranchs, sea shells, marine fish, sponges, sea urchins, soft corals, gorgonians algae and many species still being discovered.

Kalacampus acutus

New Caledonia has a very rich and diverse opisthobranch fauna, with several hundred species nudibranchs being recorded throughout the Lagoon. This exquisite Acute Kaloplocamus acutus is known across the South Pacific where it is known to feed on Bryozoans and lays an orange egg ribbon.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

A lot of the original new species were discovered by scuba divers working for the Famous Aquarium of Noumea ( some died on the job, searching too deep and too long)
It was founded by Dr. Catala - Stucki and his wife in 1956 and was at the forefront of marine research on the study of living marine life.

Rhinopias aphanes Lacy scorpionfish

The first specimen of the Weedy Scorpionfish Rhinopias aphanes to be found was by an Aquarium of Noumea scuba diver and was eventually described in 1973. It remained one of the rarest species and was sought after by many private and public aquariums throughout the world.
The second secimen known was found by Dinah Halstead on the reefs off Loloata Island Papua New Guinea in the late 1970's.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

 

It had an amazing number of never before seen species, long before they were known anywhere else. They had the first living Pearly Nautilus  displayed, and the first Harlequin Shrimps played starring roles in Dr. Rene Catala's film "Carnival of the Sea". 
I was absolutely enthralled by their discoveries and had all the books they published. A lot of our present knowledge about the oceans was observed and filmed at the Aquarium of Noumea. 
 Since the demise of the Catalas, it has since been moved to another building and updated in August 2007. No visit to New Caledonia would be complete without a visit to the Aquarium of Noumea.

Hymenocera picta

The first  Harlequin Shrimps Hymenocera picta to be filmed in the Aquarium of Noumea were a sensation, and the world marvelled at such well documented behavioural studies of them eating their sea star prey.
(Photo Neville Coleman)


The Mainland

Discovered and named by Captain Cook in September 1774, the name New Caledonia was applied because Cook thought the tall mountains on the mainland reminded him of his homeland Scotland, the old name for Scotland, was....New Caledonia.
Various traders and missionaries attemped to forge a foothold with the traditional Melanesian owners over the years, but although trading was accepted, Christianity in the form of Catholicism didn't take hold until introduced by French Marist Fathers in 1848.
 As a French territory annexed by Napoleon 111 in 1853, New Caledonia was first developed as a penal settlement, though this was abandoned in 1897.
 
Noumea, the capital, is often referred to as the "Paris of  the South Pacific".
Most people live on the mainland which is divided down the middle by a range of mountains (Chaîne Centrale), the highest points being "Mount Panié" in the north (1,629 m) and "Mount Humboldt" in the south (1,618 m). This unusual topography resembles a backbone and divides the Mainland into 2 very different climatic regions:

Similar to all regions with high rainfall and lots of rivers running into coastal localities, the areas in the vicinity of the rivers are subject to turbidity ( especially during the wet season) and may not be comparible with reefs away from river mouths.
However, as with most countries throughout the South Pacific, harbours and 'muck diving' produce some fantastic species found no where else.

 Phyllidia varicosa

Common throughout the South Pacific, the Varicose Phyllidia Phyllidia varicosa grows to 60 mm and feeds on sponges. It secrets a poisonous mucous which protects it fom attack from fish, and as such is seen out and about during the day.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

The East Coast:

Open to the trade winds, the East Coast is humid and fertile, an exotic place with lush tropical vegetation, green valleys, beautiful waterfalls, rivers, … and authentic Melanesian huts at intervals along the roads.

The West Coast:
 

A drier, temperate zone with fewer coconut palms than the East Coast.  "Niaouli" trees grow by the thousands and the endemic wildlife is rich. It is "cattle country," with grasslands shaped by people who live at the pace of their cattle. Many beautiful beaches adorn the long coastline where beachcombing is a popular practice.
Five hundred kilometers long, fifty kilometers wide, New Caledonia offers an endless variety of landscapes, from some of the best white sand beaches in the Pacific to spectacular mountain retreats.

Pomacanthus imperator

Emperor Angelfish Pomacanthus imperator area well known species throughout the Indo - Pacific and generally inhabit areas beneath caves and around shady grottos and extensive ledges at depths of 8 to 20 metres. They are easy to identify and grow to 31 cm.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

The Territory of New Caledonia is made up of the Mainland, the Isle of Pines to the south of the Mainland, the Loyalty Islands to the east of the Mainland (Maré, Lifou, Tiga and Ouvéa), the Belep Archipelago in the north west. The rest is comprised of  and numerous islands and islets: Huon & Surprise, Chesterfield Reefs ( which are sometimes visited by Live Aboards from Australia), Walpole, Beautemps-Beaupré, Astrolabe, and the Bellona reef, … a total surface area of 19,000 sq km (16,372 sq km for the Mainland alone, which is 400 km long).
 

CIDARIDAE Chondrocidaris brevispina

The first specimens of The Short - spined Sea Urchin Chondrocidaris brevispina were discovered by dredging and trawling the bottom and the species was named in 1925. However, the species is quite rare and very few are found by scuba divers and underwater photographers.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

 

The Diving

 

Information courtesy of Lagoon Safaris & New Caledonia Tourism

 There are many PADI and SSI, CMAS approved diving centres on the Mainland and the outlying islands, all offering beginners courses, training and certification for discovery dives, caving, night dives and photo dives. Full equipment available for hire (fins, masks, snorkels, wetsuits, …).

New Caledonia has established its own regulations with regard to underwater diving (deliberation dated 27 August 2002) with the objective of conforming to the international courses and qualifications (PADI, ANMP, FFESSM, CMAS, SSI,…). The professional dive centres are also obliged to hold a tourist license to operate, which is controlled annually.

Accommodation ranges from Melanesian “gîtes” (local small hotel ) to five star hotels, situated close to the diving centres.

 SUBERGORGIIDAE Subergorgia mollis

The Soft Sea Fan Annella mollis is common across the New Caledonian reefs, often seen at deeper reefs along the drop offs and the deeper slopes. Colour is fairly stable and it has a recogniseable growth pattern. Colonies may reach a size of 2 metres or more.
PHoto neville Coleman)
 

 



NOUVELLE-CALEDONIE PLONGEE

The association « Nouvelle-Calédonie Plongée » (New Caledonia Diving) is made up of 11 dive centres (total of 15 dive centres throughout the archipelago). The Association produces and sells the “Carte Plongée + » (Dive Card +) which gives divers access to the most beautiful sites in New Caledonia in conjunction with the affiliated dive centres.

 Chromodoris coi

A very attractive and well documented species, Co's Chromodrois Chromodoris coi occurs throughout the Indo - Pacific and grows to 60 mm. Some variation in colour and pattern is known across its range.
(Photo Neville Coleman)



DIVE SECURITY

The Comex 1800 decompression chamber has been operational since June 2004 to respond to any diving accident. The 24 hour constraint every day of the year is integrated into the emergency plan. The decompression chamber is located near Nouméa’s main hospital, accessible by land, sea or air. It is managed by the legal association of 1901 “Sécurité Plongée” (Diving Safety)

Conus geographus

A nocturnal predator on sleeping gobies and blennies, the Geography Cone Conus geographis has a modified radula with which it can shoot a barbed, venomous dart into its vertebrate prey. The venom paralysizes the fish and the cone animal then swallows it whole. The venom can be deadly to humans if contact is invited.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
  

The World's Largest lagoon

New Caledonia has the largest and most beautiful coral lagoon in the world… an amazing lagoon of 24,000 sq km… with a 1,600 km long barrier reef that borders a marine environment much of which has great beauty and variety, with over 10,000 species of marine creatures, all living out their existance in a thousand micro habitats and niches that go to make up a coral reef eco system.

Ceratosoma flavicostatum

Also known from Japan, the Philippines, Papua New Guinea and Australia, the Yellow - ridged Ceratosoma Certaosoma flavicostatum is a spectacular, easily identified species which feeds on sponges and grows to 80 mm.
(Photo Neville Coleman)



The water temperature ranges from 21° to 28°C providing ideal conditions for tropical sea creatures to thrive. 

The coral reefs are typical of most, with areas of colourful stony corals, populated by a large numbers of marine invertebrates and inhabited with marine fish species. The topography ranges from shallow water patch reefs which are good for snorkeling, to deeper areas, where gullies, caves and underhangs are bedecked with sea fans and soft corals that are scattered along the reef slopes and down into the undiveable deeps. 

Rhynchocinetes durbanensis 

Usually observed in colonies beneath ledges and in caves, the Durban Shrimp  Rynchocinetes durbanensis is a cleaner shrip which specializes in cleaning fish at night while they sleep.
(Photo Neville Coleman)  

 


The outer reef has swim throughs and labarinths, drop offs and terraces, with gigantic underwater slopes on the seaward side that in the crystal clear water appear as they go on forever.

Although there are areas of the coral reefs and the lagoon that have been surveyed for various species of marine life, the lagoon is so huge that its very nature could hardly be known in a lifetime, or many lifetimes, and as such, there is always the opportunity to discover new species, and new records.

Janolus sp.

First discovered by the author at lord Howe Island in 1986, Coleman's Janolus Janolus sp. generally inhabits water in the vicinity of 20 metres and feeds on bryozoans.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

With only a small number of local dive shops operating over such a huge area, every dive is discovery, and every scuba diver an explorer. 

Humpback Whales migrate to the bays in the Southern Lagoon during the mating season (July-September).

Marine reserves have been created by the New Caledonian Authorities on several islets to protect marine fauna and flora. There are also sunken shipwrecks, which act as artificial reefs and make great diving spots.

 Polycarpa clavata

 A large solitary tunicate, the Club Ascidian Polycarpa clavata may reach asize of over 200 mm and ranges in colour from yellow to orange. It is very easy to recognise, with the lower entrance being the inhalent siphon and the higher on the exhalent siphon.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

 


Discover the Amédée Lighthouse Reserve, the Prony Needle in the south, the famous Ténia Horn near Boulouparis, the “Fault” near Poé, the underwater slopes on the ocean side of the reef, the Gorgonia Valley and the freshwater caves of the Isle of Pines, the Gazelle Pass to the north, the Hienghène Reef to the east and so many other sites of Lifou Island.

Pseudobiceros sp. Gold

Also known from the Great Barrier Reef, the Gold - spotted Pseudobiceros Pseudobiceros sp. was first found and photographed by the author at Heron Island in 1974. Along with many other species of marine flatworms, this species has been recorded from New Caledonia.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

OREASTERIDAE Protoreaster nodosus

 Amongst the sandy sea grass meadows and down the sandy slopes of the deeper parts of the lagoonal areas are colonies of the big Rhinoceros Sea Star Protoreaster nodosus. It may be seen in a number of colour variations and grows to around 250 mm. The species is widespread throughout the Indo - Pacific and can be common.
(Photo Neville Coleman) 

 

 Glossodoris atromarginata

Fairly common, easily identified nudibranch, the Black  - margined Glossodoris Glossodoris atromarginata occurs from the Red Sea to Japan and throughout the Asia/Indo - Pacific. In Australia it feeds on the sponge Hyastella intestinalis and grows to 60 mm.
(Photo neville Coleman)

 

 Dactyloptena orientalis

A bottom - dwelling uncommon species rarely seen by most scuba divers, the Oriental Sea Robin Dactyloptaena orientalis generally inhabits the sea floor of sandy lagoons. It grows to 38 cm and feeds on crustaceans and molluscs.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

 STYLASTERIDAE Stylaster elegans

Seen on dropoffs under ledges and in caves, or crevasses the Elegant Hydrocoral Stylaster elegans may be seen as single fans, or growing in bunches. The colour of the main branches may be pink, or mauve with white tips. In shallow water the clumps may only be small, but below 25 metres it may grow to 300mm across.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

 CYPRAEIDAE Cypraea tigris Tiger cowry

During the day the Tiger Cowry Cypraea tigris may be seen in caves and under ledges with its mantle retracted showing the pattern of the shell. At night when it ventures forth to feed, the mantle is fully expanded, completely covering the shell.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

Bodianus loxozonus Eclipse Pigfish

The Eclipse Pigfish Bodianus loxozonus is usually seen around reefs in 8 to 25 metres. Unmistakable in its unique colour pattern, the species grows to 40cm and feeds on crustaceans and molluscs.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

 Risbecia tryoni - Jorina van der Westhuizen

A pair of Tryon's Risbecias Risbecia tryoni beginning to feed on a sponge. This species is widespread throughout the Indo - Pacific region and grows to 60mm.(Photo: Jorina van der Westhuizen)

OPHIDIASTERIDAE Fromia monilis 

One of the more common sea stars found out in the open during the day on the reefs of New Caledonia is the Necklace Sea Star Fromia monilis. It varies in its patches of red colour from one locality to another, but the basic mosiac red pattern remains. An attractive little star, this is one of the species of sea stars that the Harlequin Shrimps feeds upon.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

Reticulida halgerda

Very characteristic in its texture and colour pattern, the Decorated Reticulidia Reticulidia halgerda is a Pacific Ocean species. One of the first ones known was found and photographed at Marion Reef out in the Coral Sea in 08/1977.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

CYPRAEIDAE Cypraea cribaria Sieve cowry

Definitely nocturnal of habit, the beautifully patterned Sieve Cowry Cribrarula cribaria has a bright red mantle and during the day hides out of sight in caves and beneath slabs of dead coral to avoid being eaten by fish.

(Photo Neville Coleman) 

 Glossodoris rubroannulata

Another species of nudibranch restricted in range to the South Pacific, the Red - girdled Glossodoris Glossodoris rubroannulata has been recorded from the east coast of Australia, at Lord Howe Island and New Caledonia. It grows to 60mm and is generally seen in caves, or shady crevases and drop offs.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

Priacanthus hamrur

Growing to 40cm and inhabiting reefs across the Indo - Pacific, the Lunar - tailed Bigeye Priacanthus hamrur may be observed as a solitary, or in small groups, or big schools. Colour can be red, or silver, or silver with red bands.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

Phyllidia ocellata

A very common species that feeds on sponges and has an amazing array of colour variations, the Ocellate Phyllidia Phyllidia ocellata ranges throughout the Indo - Pacific from the Red Sea to Tonga.
(Photo Neville Coleman) 

 Hexabranchus sanguineus

Growing to over 300mm, the Spanish Dancer Hexabranchus sanguineus is without doubt the largest nudibranch in the world. It feeds on sponges and lays a pink egg ribbon in the shape of a rosette.
(Photo Neville Coleman)

NEPHTHEIDAE Dendronephthya sp.

Red Spikey Soft Coral Dendronephthya sp. inhabits reefs throughout the Indo - Pacific where these very brightly coloured soft corals are often seen along dropoffs, slopes and areas where there is a good current flow. It polyps have eight fringed tentacles, and similar to its relations, it is known as an octocoral. Colonies may reach a size of over 1 metre in height. 
At some localities, small Egg Cowries can be found feeding amongst its branches.
(Photo Neville Coleman)
 

These examples are just a small number of the many thousands marine life species recorded from New Caledonia.


Neville Colemans diving expeditions, fauna surveys, photographic fauna surveys and marine life identification courses include every major group of marine life. 
Neville Colemans expertise in marine life identification extends to the identification of Algae, Sea Grass, Forams, Sponges, Stony Corals, Soft Corals, Sea Anemones, Sea Jellies, Zoanthids, Corallimorphs, Black Corals, Marine Flatworms, Segmented Worms, Crustaceans, Barnacles, Shrimps, Rock Lobsters, Hermit Crabs, Squat Lobsters, Molluscs, Chitons, Univalves, Bivalves, Cephalopods, Octopus, Cuttlefish, Squid, Opisthobranchs, Nudibranchs, Sea Slugs, Bryozoans, Sea Mosses, Echinoderms, Sea Stars, Feather Stars, Brittle Stars, Sea Urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Ascidians/Sea Squirts, Marine Fish, Sharks, Marine Reptiles, and Marine Mammals, all found in the waters around in the waters around New Caledonia. 

  

INFORMATIONS

BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE ON AIR CALEDONIE
A supplementary baggage allowance of 10kg (total of 20kg maximum) is permitted on domestic flights for people wishing to dive out of Nouméa. It is advisable to obtain further information from your dive operator or from the domestic airline, Air Calédonie, before confirming your airline ticket.

 Visas

No visa is required for Australian citizens staying less than three months in New Caledonia and not carrying out work duties. Business visas/work permit applications should be lodged at a French Consulate in Australia.
 
For further information please contact the local Department of Immigration or the French Consulate in Australia.

DIRAG
17 Avenue Paul Doumer, Noumea
BP C5 98848 Noumea Cedex
Tel: +687 266 516
Fax: +687 241 843
Email: dirag@nouvelle-caledonie.gouv.fr

Fench Consulate
Level 26, St Martins Tower
31 Market St
Sydney NSW 2000
Tel: +61 2 9268 2400
Fax: +61 2 9268 2431

Climate

New Caledonia has the same seasons as in Australia. January to March is the rainy season when cyclones are most likely to occur, with temperatures ranging from 28°C to 35°C. July to August is the winter period, with temperatures ranging from 16°C to 24°C. For weather details in New Caledonia, please visit the World Meteorological Organization.

Airports

The international gateway is Tontouta airport (52km north of Noumea). There are regular connections from Australia (one daily flight to Sydney and three to Brisbane per week) operated by Qantas and Air Calédonie International (local airline).

Return taxi fare to Noumea is around A$230. Austrade can assist in booking a shuttle or hotel shuttle bus. Hotel shuttle buses meet all flights and cost around A$75 return (cheaper but longer transport time), as well as private cars (about A$100 return). Airport-city transfers should be included when booking ticket if possible, together with accommodation. There is no departure tax.

Ground transport

Taxis are readily available at ranks, but they may be ordered by phone. Fares are metered, and there is no bargaining. There is also a public bus system, which is safe to travel on buses, but not reliable for appointments.


Vehicles are left hand drive, and drive on the right hand side of the road. Hire cars are readily available (international licence is preferred, but Australian licences are accepted).

Hotels

Hotel rates vary from $A150 to $350, but regular business travellers may negotiate according to the frequency of their stays.

Ramada Hotel
Anse Vata, Noumea
Email: reservation@ramadaplaza-noumea.nc


Le Meridien Noumea
7 Promenade Pierre Vernier
Anse Vata, Noumea
Email: ventes@meridien.nc


Nouvata Park Hotel Noumea
123 Promenade R. Laroque
Anse Vata, Noumea
Email: gm.parkroyal@mls.nc

Security and health

The Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade (DFAT) provides advice for business travellers and tourists going to New Caledonia. This is regularly updated, and should be checked before planning travel.

Health

Vaccination certificates are not required, unless you are coming from an infected area.
Medical services are good if required with one public hospital staffed by French doctors and three private clinics. Doctors and dentists are readily available.

Tipping

There is no tipping in New Caledonia.

Time zones and time differences

There is only one time zone. New Caledonia is one hour ahead of Australian Eastern Standard Time.
To find out the current time in Noumea, view the World Clock.

Dialling codes

New Caledonia's country code is 687.
For calls to New Caledonia from Australia dial: 0011 + 687 + area code + telephone number.
For calls from New Caledonia to Australia dial: 00 + 61 + area code + telephone number.
For further information (eg. area codes) please visit the White Pages - international dialling codes.

Business hours

Business hours are normally from 7.30am to 11.30am and 1.30pm to 5.30pm, Monday to Friday.
 Banks are open between 8.30am to 4.00pm, Monday to Friday. Banks have branches throughout the territory. Most credit cards are accepted (Visa, Mastercard, Eurocard, American Express not always).

Public holidays

January 1 – New Year's Day
May 1 – French Labour Day
July 14 – Bastille Day
August 15 – Assumption Day
September 24 – New Caledonia Day
November 1 – All Saints’ Day
November 11 – Armistice Day
December 25/26 – Christmas

Currency

Oanda currency converter

The currency is the Pacific Franc (XPF or CFP), and it is fixed to the Euro. Australian currency can be easily exchanged at banks and hotels.

Electricity and water

New Caledonia’s power supply is 220/240 volts, 60Hz 1, 3 phases, 2, 3, 4 wires. The two-pin plugs are the most common.
 

 
 

 

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International Scuba Diving Hall of Fame
International Scuba Diving Hall of Fame
The Explorers Club Promoting Exploration and Field Sciences Since 1904
Australian Photographic Society
Australian Photographic Society
Australian Institute of Professional Photography
Cetacean Society International
Australian Marine Conservation Society
Project AWARE Foundation Divers Conserving Underwater environments
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Nudibarnchs Encyclopedia Catalogue of Asia Indo-Pacific Sea Slugs Neville Coleman
Sea Stars - Echinoderms of the Asia/Indo-Pacific ID Book Neville Coleman
2002 Sea Shells ID Book Neville Coleman
Indo-Pacific Sea Fishes ID Guide Neville Coleman
Sea Birds South Pacific ID Guide Neville Coleman
SSI Scuba Schools International
International Scuba Diving Hall of Fame
Underwater Naturalist Marine Life ID Guide - Neville Coleman
PADI The Way the World Learns to Dive