The Fiji Islands and its thousands of reefs are marvelous for scuba diving, snorkeling and especially for underwater photography and support a huge number of species of fantastic marine life, resulting in an enormous smorgasboard of colourful reefs and flambuoyant creatures.
The exploration and recording carried out over its history has resulted in many thousands of sea creatures being collected and established into the fauna listings.
It is known that there are over 1,000 species of fishes, several hundred corals and soft corals, around 200 echinoderms, at least 3,500 molluscs, 60 nudibranchs and thousands of crustaceans. Over 100 algae species have been recorded and at least several hundred sponges are known to live on the reefs.
Besides its friendly people, wonderful resorts and brilliant diving,
Fiji has the most magic sunsets.
It is thought that Fiji was first inhabited by Melanesian colonisers some 3,000 years ago and grew into a society of extended family groups formed into tribes which combined into super tribes known as Vanua. War was an integral part of the 'might is right' tradition and the various chiefs ruled with iron fists extracting tributes from all. Brutality was a sign of strength, power and control.
Abel Tasman was the first European to discover the Fijian Islands in 1943.
Captain James Cook passed by Lau Islands from Tonga in 1774 but due to warnings from the Tongans as to the ferocity of the locals he didn't land. It was Captain William Bligh, cast adrift by the Bounty mutineers in 1789 who made the first charts from his open longboat.
With over 320 islands nestling in an area of 200,000 sq km, thousands of vast, virtually unexplored reefs and a complex menagerie of known and unknown creatures the Fijian Archipelago presents a bewildering magnitude of species to record.
Marine Flora and Fauna
Fijian waters hide an extravaganza of incredible beings. This cave at only 10 metres in Beqa Lagoon is just one example of the incredible beauty the reefs of Fiji have to offer visiting scuba divers and snorkellers.
Fiji and its thousands of reefs support a huge number of species of marine life. The exploration and recording carried out over its history has resulted in many thousands of sea creatures being collected and established into the fauna listings.
It is known that there are over 1,000 species of fishes, several hundred corals and soft corals, around 200 echinoderms, at least 3,500 molluscs, 60 nudibranchs and thousands of crustaceans. Over 100 algae species have been recorded and at least several hundred sponges are known to live on the reefs.
Even though a lot of work has been done in establishing flora and fauna listings on the Fijian Reefs, there are still lots of new species to be discovered. This new species Orange Anemonefish Amphiprion sp. has only been recognised as such in recent years.
Marine mammals seen in the surrounding seas includes humpback whales, sperm whales, bottlenose dolphins, common dolphins and spinner dolphins. During a sail/dive expedition to the Yasawas in 1965 I observed thousands of dolphins breaching just on sunset, something I have never seen again.
Reef Walking
During low tides, guides may take eco-experience groups out and about around the reef, pointing out the various species and sharing the experience of learning and the wide diversity of creatures.
When choosing a path across the reef flats it is best to walk on the firmer flat areas and avoid walking directly on the corals. This is just as much benefit to the reef walker as the coral, as many corals are fragile and will often collapse under the weight of a human often causing injury to unprotected ankles or shins or dumping the reef walker into the water, or at worse, onto the surrounding reef.
Wide expanses of low tide reef are accessible in some areas
where a variety of invertebrate species can be seen.
When walking in the shallows through pools or on submerged rubble try and shuffle each foot along rather than taking big steps where the foot comes down with the full body weight on it. In this way, small sting rays or stonefish can sense your approach and either move out of your way, or by shuffling you move past a stonefish instead of stepping directly on its raised spines.
Always wear a hat and a shirt for even if the breeze seems to be cooler or the sun weaker on an overcast day this is not the case. Every day in the outdoors is a potential burn day. The surface water reflects the sunlight upwards so it is best to take precautions. (Always obtain permission from operator or village before reef walking).
Snorkelling and Scuba Diving
Fiji is the ideal place to learn to dive. The many and varied Dive Resorts with excellent facilities, instructors and equipment just compliment the clear water and really magic dive sites.
With around 50 eco-tour operators, resorts, live-aboards and day trippers offering snorkelling and/or scuba diving adventure experiences, the opportunities are many and varied.
The mainland and island resorts are tailored to meet the needs of every diver, and include shark diving experiences. Snorkellers and beginners have huge areas of calm clear water and shallow coral reefs to explore.
Local dive guides are very experienced and many are quite conversant with a great deal of knowledge regarding the many and varied flora and fauna of the reefs around Fiji.
During periods of calm weather more experienced divers can venture along the ocean side of the barrier reef and the passages through it. Visibility frequently exceeds 35 metres and there are hectares of vibrant corals, colourful reef fish, dolphins, sharks, manta rays, turtles and large pelagics to see.
The Coral Coast
The coral coast begins 15 kilometres south of Nadi town. A new highway runs inland past sugar cane fields and Caribbean pine plantations missing much of the coastal beauty until it descends towards Yanuca Island and one of Fiji's largest beach resorts which is also the headquarters for the sole dive operator catering for the luxury resorts and budget accommodation places along this spectacular stretch of Fiji's principal island. Once past the small township of Sigatoka and the village of Korotogo, the highway joins the coast and runs beside the beautiful lagoon.
Generally seen along reef drop ofs and around caves and labarinths, the Emperor Angelfish Pomacanthus imperator browses on sponges and hydroids.
Nadi, The Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands
Within close proximity to the international airport at Nadi this area is well served with hotels to suit every taste and budget. Dive and snorkel services are available from the hotels and resorts with the destinations usually focussing around the nearby reefs and islands. The Mamanuca Islands are a spectacular mini archipelago only 10 minutes by air from the airport, or one hour by ferry. The Mamanuca Islands sweep in an arc to the north-west and join the spectacular Yasawa chain. The islands lie behind the great sea reef enclosing a huge lagoon of innumerable reefs, bommies, islands and islets.
A resident of the Bulb - tentacle Sea Anemone, the Red and black Anemonefish Amphiprion melanopus is generally seen as a pair of adult fish with one or more juveniles also inhabiting the anemone. The presence of juveniles does not mean that they are the offspring of the adults.
Pacific Harbour, Yanuca, Beqa and Vatulele Islands
Much of the accomodation at island resorts is made up of traditional Fijian Bures with excellent fittings and well kept services.
World acclaimed diving served by mainland accommodation, including the various hotels at Suva only 49 kilometres (27 miles) away and two resorts on the islands, one at Vatulele and another on Beqa Island. Both of these are small, intimate and exclusive offering a great deal more besides superb diving.
Found all across the Pacific, the Decorated Reticulidia Reticulidia halgerda grows to 60 mm and feeds on sponges which it dissolves with powerful enzimes.
Kadavu
This is Fiji's fourth largest island 45 miles south of the capital city, Suva, and linked by air from both the Nadi and Nausori airports. Kadavu airport at Vunisea is where the island is somewhat like a wasp's body, a narrow strip of flat land making for a spectacular aerial approach and take off to the south, featuring a deep bay dotted with islands and a riot of colour in the lagoon. Kadavu is rated as an outstanding dive destination, equal to (and better than most) in the world.
Swallowtail basslets Serranocirrhitus latus live beneath deeper ledges and caves and as such are not always noticed by many divers. The secret to seeing more underwater is, to take a torch and search.
Lomaiviti and RA
Lomaiviti is the Fijian name for a group of islands east of Viti Levu. The islands include Ovalau which has the quaint former capital of Fiji, Levuka; Moturiki, Makogai, Batiki, Nairai, Gau and a number of smaller islands and islets. This includes Toberua and Wakaya whose exclusive resorts offer superb diving as does a live-aboard vessel which frequents this area.
The eastern coast of Viti Levu which sweeps to its northern-most point is known as Ra. The islands of Nananu-i-Ra and Nananu-i-Cake, are the site of new dive operations. The islands are approximately two hours by car from Nadi Airport on a modern tar-sealed highway through sugar cane fields.
Besides its thousands of well known species, Fiji has quite a few life forms which are very unusual and sought out by divers and underwater photographers.
Due to its ability to mimic purple, orange and yellow filamentous algae, the Hairy Ghostpipefish Solenostomus paeginus is one of most difficult subjects to find in its natural habitat.
The North - Savu Savu
The North is the common name for the islands of Vanua Levu. Namenalala, Taveuni, Qamea, Laucala, Matagi, Kioa, Rabi and a series of smaller islets and islands. For reference purposes, the North has two distinct tourist/dive areas: Savu Savu and Taveuni. Savu Savu is located on the shore of a magnificent harbour on Fiji's second largest island of Vanua Levu, the township of Savu Savu is the focal point of several resorts and outstanding diving, the Cousteau Society's Ocean Search Project has used Savu Savu for the past seven years offering a testimonial to its diving and its attractions as a destination.
Fijian waters support a myriad Butterflyfishes, the Racoon Butterflyfish Chaetodon lunula is just one example that inhabits the many reefs throughout the Pacific Ocean.
This area includes the island of Namenalala within the great Namena reef surrounded by pristine waters. Savu Savu is only a brief but scenic flight from either Nadi or Suva showing a multitude of coral reefs with their wonderful pastel colours, shades of aqua greens, turquoise and the dark blue of the deep sea. There is much to see on the ground: and old gold mine, treks and trails through virgin forest beside streams with cascades and waterfalls, horse riding, visits to villages and road tours.
With such an extravaganza of reefs with thousands of sea fans it is no wonder that most divers just look at the fabulous colour and swim on. However, should anybody venture further they might find the litlle Depressed Spider Crab Xenocarcinus depressus which lives amongst the branches of sea fans.
Taveuni
Known as the Garden Isle of Fiji, Taveuni is the result of a gigantic volcanic eruption which has left the soil immensely fertile. The peak of the volcano, Mt Uluqalau, is a majestic 1300 metres (more than 4000 feet) above the sea and the ridges and spurs march down to the sea covered in a magnificent rainforest which gives way on the lower slopes and the coastal fringe to coconut plantations except for a stretch on the south eastern side where cliff faces plunge into the ocean.
Scenes like this are reminiscent of many dive sites in Fiji. Whether its diving the lagoons, or the walls of soft corals, caves and overhangs, the marine life is phenomonal and the visibility ledgendary, so to are the currents. Always take your safety sausage, or a pick up flag.
The island is host to most of Fiji's native bird species and to the unique Tagimaucia flower. Taveuni is Fiji's third largest island, separated by a narrow strait from Vanua Levu, but enclosing within its reef the islands of Qamea, Laucala and Matagi. The northern Lau Islands include Kaimbu which is Fiji's most exclusive resort, featuring only three bures, each with access onto its own white sand beach.
By learning about species unknown to them local tour operators, guides and resort personnel can improve their knowledge and indeed increase their ability to provide better services for their guests.
Colourful pageants, dances, feasts and traditional entertainment
are a way of life in the Fiji Islands.
Part of a chain of volcanic mountains which extend from Papua New Guinea in the north to New Zealand in the south, the Fiji Islands reside between Tonga in the east and Vanuatu to the west. The four larger volcanic islands of Viti Levu, Vanua Levu, Taveuni and Kadavu have high central mountain ranges, dense tropical rainforest and make up for around 85 per cent of Fiji's total land mass.
The four big islands support most of the population of 360,000 native Fijians and over 400,000 peoples of mixed races; most descendants of Indian indentured labourers introduced to work the sugar and coconut plantations.
In general, most of the islands are high and rugged, covered in rainforest with acres of giant fern trees, lush, wet undergrowth edged with coconut palms and surrounded by fringing coral reefs.
The mountains are extremely rugged with the highest rising 1,200 metres above sea level. The climate is tropical with temperatures varying between 30C in summer and 26C in winter. East/south-east trade winds blow most of the year and in the summer monsoon season it rains and can be overcast for extended periods.
Land Flora
Tokai's orchid Dendrobium tokai is an epiphytic species found growing
on trees in the rainforests.
Although over 6,000 plants have been recorded most of the brightly-coloured flowering species have been introduced (similarly to other South Pacific island groups) so that similar species may be seen in Tahiti, Vanuatu, Tonga or the Solomon Islands.
A cultivated crop throughout the region, the Red Ginger Alpinia purpurata
is also used as a decorative addition to resort gardens.
Despite the many introduced species Fiji has numbers of endemic flowers and plants found nowhere else, including both terrestrial and epiphytic orchids and the national flower the Tagimaucia, of which there are 11 species.
The Lobster Claw Heliconia rostrata is very widespread, especially around
the resort areas as it grows readily and produces attractive flowers.
Land Fauna
Insects
There are a number of spiders, including the all familiar huntsman, the giant Nephila web spiders, jumping spiders, wolf spiders, water spiders, leaf spiders and many others.
Found throughout the South Pacific the Meadow Argus butterfly
Junonia villida has prominent eye spots on its wings.
Giant millipedes, centipedes, even scorpions exist in the forests; while crickets, grasshoppers, katydids, damselflies, dragonflies, stick insects, leaf insects, preying mantis, cockroaches, shield beetles, cicadas, lady beetles, tiger beetles, rhinoceros beetles and many others abound.
Most places have mosquitoes, flies, bees, wasps and weevils while 42 species of butterflies and up to 100 species of moths are recorded.
Due to its excellent camouflage this female leaf insect Chitoniscus sp.
is rarely seen. The male is shaped like a long skinny stick insect
and does not resemble the female at all.
( photo: Philip Felstead , Kula Eco Park, Fiji)
Birds
Similar to many other South Pacific island groups the number of bird species is small in Fiji. Records show a total list of only 81 or so kinds of land and water birds with 10 or more species originally introduced, but now firmly entrenched into the fauna.
One of the most beautiful of all parrots is the Collared Lory Phigys solitarius.
( photo: Philip Felstead , Kula Eco Park, Fiji)
Just as the bird fauna appears impoverished, sightings of many species are also not common. In fact, most of those observed by visitors are introduced species. Terrestrial native birds which may be seen include fruit doves, hawks, pigeons, honeyeaters, lories, parrots, swiftlets, fantails, flycatchers, broadbills, silvereyes, finches, whistlers, swallows and kingfishers. Most of the introduced species seen are mynas, bulbuls and sparrows.
The male golden fruit dove Ptilinopus luteovirens
has a very distinctive green plumage; with teal-green face and feet.
(Photo: Philip Felstead, Kula Eco Park, Fiji)
Found on Vanualevu and Taveuni the orange dove Ptilinopus victor
feeds entirely on fruit. (Male)
(Photo: Philip Felstead, Kula Eco Park, Fiji)
Sea birds occur but are not seen in large numbers and those that breed in Fiji only do so on the outer islands and cays where there are suitable nesting sites.
Reef herons frequent the shorelines while bridled terns, grey-backed terns, black-naped terns, crested terns and white terns may be observed in the air or on shore.
Other sea birds include the common noddy, white-capped noddy, the brown, masked and red-footed boobies, frigate birds, shearwaters, albatross and petrels. Migrating shore birds recorded include plovers, curlews, ruddy turnstones, sanderlings, godwits and tattlers, even Australian pelicans have been seen on several occasions.
With a wingspan of 150cm the brown booby Sula leucogaster
flys great distances in search of prey.
It dives from heights of 20 metres to catch squid and fish.
Reptiles, Frogs and Toads
With around 20 species of terrestrial reptiles known from the Fijian area the most spectacular are the green iguanas which generally live in shrubs and trees and may reach a size of one metre.
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Thought to have originated from South America, the Banded Iguana
Brachylophus fasciatus (male) is omnivorous and is fairly common in some areas.
There are giant forest geckoes which grow up to 30cm and seven other species, four of which inhabit buildings. A number of skinks scuttle around on the ground and bushes, or sunbake on rocks, and two species of snakes occur in the undergrowth. The Pacific boa constrictor is not venomous and often has attractive patterns; it can grow to two metres. The burrowing snake is rarely seen. Four species of sea snakes and four sea turtles make up the marine reptile fauna.
Besides the introduced cane toad Bufo marina which inhabits all the main islands, there are two species of endemic frogs, the Fijian tree frog Platymantis vitiensis and the Fijian ground frog Platymantis vitianus; neither are easy to find.
The Fiji tree frog Platymantis vitiensis has no tadpole stage
and develops from cell to froglet inside it's egg. (Direct development)
(Photo: Philip Felstead, Kula Eco Park, Fiji)
In the past, there has been some conjecture on whether the frogs were native or introduced. As they both (at this point in time) belong to the genus Platymantis which is common in Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands it would appear that they are natives by way of connecting land bridges during times of lower sea levels.
Mammals
Six species of bats occur in Fiji, four species of fruit-eating bats and two insectivores which are mostly found in caves during the day. As the smaller insectivorous species sometimes share caves with the white-rumped swiftlet the latter (also insectivorous) are often mistaken by locals of South Pacific countries as bats. The larger fruit bats roost in large colonies high up in the branches of forest trees, while MacDonald's fruit bat roosts on the ceilings of caves.
Introduced rats, mongoose, pigs, sambar deer, goats and cats are feral and destructive to native flora and fauna.
Neville Coleman's diving expeditions, fauna surveys, photographic fauna surveys and marine life identification courses include every major group of marine life.
Neville Coleman's expertise in marine life identification extends to the identification of Algae, Sea Grass, Forams, Sponges, Stony Corals, Soft Corals, Sea Anemones, Sea Jellies, Zoanthids, Corallimorphs, Black Corals, Flatworms, Segmented Worms, Crustaceans, Barnacles, Shrimps, Rock Lobsters, Hermit Crabs, Squat Lobsters, Molluscs, Chitons, Univalves, Bivalves, Cephalopods, Octopus, Cuttlefish, Squid, Opisthobranchs, Nudibranchs, Sea Slugs, Bryozoans, Sea Mosses, Echinoderms, Sea Stars, Feather Stars, Brittle Stars, Sea Urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Ascidians/Sea Squirts, Marine Fish, Sharks, Marine Reptiles, and Marine Mammals, all found in the waters around the Fijian Islands.
( Copyright Neville Coleman)
How to get there
From the United States on either Qantas or Air New Zealand through Hawaii. From New Zealand or Australia by Air Pacific (Fiji's own international airline), Air New Zealand or Qantas.
Domestic airlines
Two domestic airlines service the country. Fiji's North is a popular dive destination requiring a flight from either Suva or Nadi. Please check luggage limit. Visitors on their way south can store excess baggage at the hotel in Viti Levu or in a locker at Nadi airport.
Entry requirements
Visas of up to three months are granted free of charge to citizens of most countries upon arrival. Ensure your passport has at least 90 days validity. Departure tax (included in airline tickets).
Electricity
240V, 50Hz AC with three-pronged Australian-type outlets.
Medical/health
Visitors do not need vaccinations, however, it is a tropical country and normal safety measures should be taken. Check with your doctor. There are no dangerous land animals. Urban water is generally safe to drink. Resorts have individual supplies. If unsure bottled water is readily available.
Climate
Average summer temperatures are 30C (86F) maximum and 23C (75F) minimum. The average winter maximum is 26C (73F) and the minimum is 20C (68F). A cooling trade wind blows from the east south-east for most of the year. It usually conveniently drops in the evening and picks up again next day at mid-morning. Summer (November-March) water temperatures average 80 to 83F and the winter trade wind season (April-October) 78 to 70F.
Language
The official language is English but the various races speak in their vernacular. The spelling of the Fijian place names can be confusing due to the system of orthography devised by early missionaries. Yachtsmen and divers may be confused because the phonetic form is always used in sea charts. Local form of Hindustani is also widely spoken.
Currency
Fiji has its own currency. There are a number of branches of international banks and Fiji has its own back, the National Bank of Fiji which is Government guaranteed.
Notes exist in $20, $10, $5, $2 and $1 denominations and coins in 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c and 1c denominations.
Major credit cards are accepted at major establishments. Tipping is not expected.